Vintage knitting patterns can be found in a variety of places; charity shops, second-hand sales and often in the attics of former knitters and crocheters. Many of the designs can be consigned to history and never seen again. But as fashion is, by its nature, cyclical, there may well be gems in old books and pamphlets which, with a little work and research, can be made usable for today.
Needle Size
Most vintage patterns will show the needles in pre-metric sizes. If your needles also came to you second hand, then this may not be a problem, as they will be labelled in the “old” sizes. It is still useful to know, however, what the metric equivalent is, in order the estimate the thickness of the yarn, and therefore of the finished item.
There are a number of websites available which offer conversion charts, enabling you to see the current equivalent of an old needle size.
Yarn Choice
If a yarn brand is named in the pattern, it is extremely unlikely that it would be available today. If the spinner is still in existence, then they may have a similar product, but it is safest to assume that the yarn no longer exists.
The majority of vintage patterns call for wool, as this was the main material for knitting and crochet until the advent of acrylic yarns. Of course, it is not necessary for the modern knitter to work in wool, if they prefer to use a different fibre, but the usual rules of yarn substitution will apply.
The drape of the completed item should also be considered when exchanging one fibre type for another. Bamboo, for example, has a very soft drape when compared with wool and so the overall appearance of the garment could change dramatically, when a different yarn type is used.
Yarn Weight
Sometimes the yarn weight will be given in the pattern (eg “7 oz of 4-ply wool”), while in other patterns, simply the brand name will be listed. The needle size, once established, can be a great help, as it will give an idea of the yarn being used. However, it is also possible to use the tension or gauge given in the pattern. The Yarn Council of America provides a great deal of useful information about yarn weights, which can be used worldwide to guide the knitter or crocheter towards the right type of yarn.
Yarn Quantity
If the same fibre type has been selected as the original pattern, then the amounts given will not be too far out when buying modern yarns. However, different fibres have different densities and these need to be taken into account. For example, a 100g ball of DK weight cotton yarn has approximately 210 meters, where the same weight in acrylic may yield as much as 275m. If in doubt, over-estimate.
Tension
Once the needles and yarn have been chosen, then the tension/gauge swatch is vital. This is the only way that the crafter can ensure that the sizing will be correct and the item will fit. However, once the gauge has been determined and found to match the pattern, the rest should be straightforward.
You are now ready to cast on or create the foundation chain and create a modern take on a classic design. Happy crafting!
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